you are here: The Italian Food Valley-Parma and Beyond: a trip outside the city walls

Rocche e Castelli – The Ducal Castles

Arial view of the Rocca di Fontanellato

During the Middle Ages, many noble families lived in the Parma area. These families came from throughout the region and were bestowed the role of feudal lords, or feudatari, by the Emperor. During the Renaissance and the age of the signorie, the noble families played an important role in the balance of power.

In order to house the nobles, numerous rocche – a type of elegant medieval residence – and castles were built in the Parma countryside. The arrival of the Farnese family and the creation of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza brought change to the area. The roles and responsibilities of the various feudal lords were completely reorganized.

The ancient castles were also converted from fortresses into elegant residences. Today, you can tour many of these castles and view the incredible works of art on display inside. At the Rocca of Fontanellato you can visit a room decorated in fresco by Parmigianino, whereas at the Rocca of Soragna, occupied for over 500 years by the noble Meli-Lupi family, there are both interesting frescos and period furniture that tell the stories of the ghost of Donna Cinerina.
The Castle of San Secondo tells the story of the Rossi family, the Ducal Palace of Colorno shines due to its elaborate Italian-style park, and a depiction of the love story between Pier Maria Rossi and Bianca Pellegrino can be found in the Camera d’Oro of the country house of Torrechiara.
Inside the Rocca of Sala Baganza, Cesare Baglione was responsible for painting images from local myths and legends in the vaults of the property.

There is a lot to see and discover in the elegant castles around Parma.

	ROCCA SANVITALE – FONTANELLATO Rocca Sanvitale, the home of one of the most well known aristocratic families in Parma, was built during the first decades of the 12th century. The Sanvitale brothers, Giberto and Gianmartino, were actually made counts by Bishop Gianmaria in 1404. Their castle, however, was remodeled many times throughout the centuries. The exterior walls protecting the castle were built after 1386. Construction began with the erection of a square tower at the northern end of the complex – originally much taller than it is now – and the residence was completed by the middle of the 15th century. Inside the castle, there are many rooms decorated with antique furniture and art. There are portraits of the Sanvitale family from the 17th and 19th centuries in the sala dei Sanvitale, 17th century portraits of the Farnese family in the sala dei Farnese, paintings by Giovan Francesco Nuvolone and Jean Sons, and a painting in the style of Cesare Cesariano (ca. 1512). You can also find 288 18th century maps that count Giovanni Sanvitale gave to the mayor of Fontanellato just a few months before the sale of the castle to the City. And in 1861, the ceiling of the sala delle Grottesche, one of the oldest rooms in the castle, was repainted by Giovanni Gaibazzi e Giuseppe Bossi. A roof garden was added in the 1930s. The remodel, led by Luigi Sanvitale, required part of the pre-existing building to be knocked down. In the southern tower, you will find a concave screen, which was used for projecting images of the piazza during the 19th century. Still today tourists enjoy marveling at these reflections. However, the most important works of art at Sanvitale are the frescos with the stories of Diana and Actaeon, painted in 1524 by Parmigianino. Near the frescos, many rooms set up like a museum and contain interesting information about the castle. On the third Sunday of each month, one of the best antique markets in Northern Italy is held in the piazza surrounding the castle. Just outside the medieval city center, you will find the Shrine of the Madonna that contains a large and valuable collection of ex voto paintings from the 15th to the 20th century. Info: Piazzale Matteotti, 1 - 43012 Fontanellato (PR) – I Tel.: +39 0521 823220 – +39 0521 829055 - Fax: +39 0521 824042 E-mail: info@fontanellato.org Web: www.fontanellato.org
	ROCCA MELI LUPI – SORAGNA Built in 1361, the Rocca of Meli Lupi di Soragna is a fairly stout, square building with impressive, crenellated towers located at each corner. Additional work was done to the building in 1446, including the decoration of the vault of the portico. In 1680, prince Giampaolo made further alterations in an effort to fortify the castle. In the 18th century, architect Angelo Rasori added ashlar bricks to the window and top of the building and created the Gallery of the Poets. There are many works of art contained in this splendid home. The art was collected by one of the most noble families of Northern Italy, of which prince Diofebo Meli Lupi is a descendent. In addition, many of the rooms in the castle are open to the public. In the Sala Rossa, for example, there are six landscapes painted by Brescianino (the celebrated 18th century painter of battle scenes), portraits of Giampaolo Meli Lupi and his wife Ottavia Rossi. The walls of the Sala del Biliardo Antico are covered with portraits of the family, including a painting of the famous Donna Cinerina. You can also visit the scala del Draghi, or stairway of Dragons that leads to the second floor, or the Sala delle Donne Forti that contains the throne of Meli Lupi. Salone Baglione houses frescos of landscapes painted by Cesare Baglione in the 17th century. The Gabinetto, or study, is gilded with a wooden ceiling made by Giuseppe Bosi in 1701. Don’t miss the Sala degli Stucchi, with its frescoed ceiling painted by Francesco e Ferdinando Galli Bibiena, the top regional architects and designers of the 18th century. Their work, Apoteosi della famiglia Meli Lupi, or the “Glorification of the Meli Lupi family,” is located here. The Galleria contains frescos by Francesco Bibiena on the history of the Meli Lupi family name. There is also a fresco called Assunta, painted by Ilario Spolverini, the painter of the last of the Farnese family. In the Galleria delle monache, you can find the portraits of the Farnese family from the end of the 17th century. In the garden, there are remains from of obelisks dating back to the 17th century. Some of the rooms of the castle are available for conferences, exhibitions and concerts. A Jewish synagogue is located next to the castle, or rocca. It is considered one of the most beautiful of the region. You can visit both the synagogue and the museum attached to it. Beyond the park, you will find the Parmigiano-Reggiano museum, built inside the 19th century castle of the Meli Lupi family. The small town of Soragna is worth a visit in and of itself. It is an enjoyable place to walk around, visit the town churches and try the excellent cooking in the town restaurants. Info: Piazza Meli Lupi, 5 - 43019 Soragna (PR) – I Tel. e Fax: +39 0524 597964 - +39 0524 597978 E-mail: meli_lupi@libero.it Web: www.roccadisoragna.com
	ROCCA DEI ROSSI – SAN SECONDO The Rocca dei Rossi is one of the most beautiful 16th century palaces built in the Po Valley. The rocca boasts a vast art collection with important works by Orazio Samacchini, Sebastiano Galeotti and Cesare Baglione. The paintings depict mythological and historical scenes, including the great achievements of the Rossi family who owned the land during the 14th century. In 1466, Pier Maria Rossi decided to build a castle that would serve as both an elegant home and protection for the city center that extends to the east, beyond the wide piazza. Ninety years later after its construction, the rocca was remodeled by the duke Ottavio Farnese, who tore down the defensive features of the building and filled in the ditches, converting the building into a family residence. Due to the desires of Troilo Rossi, all of the rooms on the main floor were painted with frescos by the best artists of the time: Bertoja, Campi, Baglione, Anselmi. The façade of the building was redone during the 16th century, while the tower on the left side of the rocca was constructed between 1895 and 1906. These two improvements altered much of the old structure. On the main floor, or piano nobile, of the castle, one can visit: the Sala delle gesta rossiane, which one enters from the large, main staircase. The vault of the room is decorated entirely with splendid frescos painted by Prospero Fontana (1565-70) and Cesare Baglione. Fontana is responsible for the scenes of Pier Maria Rossi being awarded the medal of the Order of San Michele. The walls were decorated by Baglione, Gerolamo Mirola and Bartoja. The frescos in the three rooms that face the terrace have been attributed to Orazio Samacchini; the Sala dei Giganti, contains images of the fall of the of the Giants, with Minerva, Prometheus, the Dioscuri that help the Roman troups and the fall of Icarus and Phaethon; the Sala di Mercurio, which contains the allegory of the Arts; the Sala dell'Asino d'oro, with frescos of the famous story of Apuleius; the Sala della Giustizia, with grottesche and images painted by Baglione. The adjacent room is decorated with the history of the wolf and oval-shaped landscape paintings; the Corridoio di Esopo, is decorated with scenes from well-known fables. The city of San Secondo is known for its enchanting, portico-lined main road and for its local cuisine, including spalla cotta, or cooked pork shoulder, and Fortana wine. The Spalla Cotta of San Secondo was a favorite of Giuseppe Verdi. At the end of August, San Secondo hosts the Fiera of Fortanina and Spalla Cotta. The city is also home to the Confraternita del Culatello Supremo. And just a mile from the city, you can find the old, rural church of San Genesio, built before 1016. The church has three naves in accordance with its Romanesque style. Surrounded by fields, the church is immersed in landscape unchanged for centuries. When it was built, San Genesio would have been a meeting point for all of the local, rural communities. Info: Rocca di San Secondo - Piazza Mazzini, 12 - 43017 San Secondo Parmense (PR) – I Tel. e Fax: +39 0521 872147 E–mail: uit@comune.san-secondo-parmense.pr.it Web: www.cortedeirossi.it
	PALAZZO DUCALE – COLORNO The Ducal Palace of Colorno was home to the powerful Sanseverino family when it was confiscated by the Farnese in 1612 as part of the so-called “plot of the feudal lords.” The Farnese family converted the palace into a summer residence for the ducal court. Ranuccio II, and his successor Francesco, commissioned a series of improvements that transformed the 16th century castle into a luxurious palace, often referred to as a “small Versailles.” The Farnese family remodel occurred between 1663 and 1671, and was led by Giovanbattista Lavezzoli. Lavezzoli was responsible for adding the three rows of framed windows on the exterior wall facing the piazza. However, Ferdinando Galli Bibiena (1657–1743), an architect who worked in Colorno from 1709 to 1714, was the one to enlarge the loggia facing the Parma river. He extended the building towards the garden by building a dramatic staircase leading to the piano noble and designed the entire Italian garden. The current exterior of the palace can be traced back to sometime between 1723 and 1726. The elegant balustrated crowning with vases and statues and doorway facing the piazza are likely to have been designed by the architect/sculptor Giuliano Mozzani. Mozzani was created the dramatic fountains for the garden. After the Farnese occupation, the palace was passed on to the Bourbons. In 1749, Philip chose Colorno as home of the ducal family and returned the building to its original splendor. Ferdinand, Philip’s son, was responsible for redecorating the interiors to the French-style of the time. In 1755, Ennemond Alexandre Petitot (1727–1801) designed the Sala Grande, which was decorated by Fortunato Rusca and Jean Baptiste Boudard (1710–1768). The Colorno Palace later became the home of Marie Louise of Austria, who commissioned additional interior remodels and the creation of a small English garden. With the unification of Italy, all of the furniture, statues and fountains were taken from the palace and moved to other villas and museums. For a decade, the building was used as a psychiatric hospital. Both the palace and the gardens were recently restored by the local government. The complex now hosts art exhibits and has been home to Alma, the International School of Italian Cuisine, since 2004. Info: Piazza Garibaldi,26 - 43052 Colorno (PR) – I Tel.: +39 0521 312545 - Fax: +39 0521 521370 E-mail: ufficio.turistico@comune.colorno.pr.it Web: www.comune.colorno.pr.it
	CASTELLO DI TORRECHIARA The castle of Torrechiara, one of the most famous in the Parma province, was built between 1448 and 1460, on the site of previous buildings. The castle was commissioned by Pier Maria Rossi (1413–1482), the count of San Secondo, whose estate covered a large part of the Taro, Parma and Baganza river valleys and included many castles and forts. Images of this other properties were painted on the walls inside the Torrechiara castle. Leader of the Visconti at the elegant court of Milan, Pier Maria was studying humanities when he met the Bianca Pellegino, the wife of Melchiorre d’Arluno. Pier Maria, who had previously married Antonia Torelli di Montechiarugolo, formed a lifelong relationship with Bianca Pellegino. In the Camera d’Oro, or “Golden Room,” of the Torrechiara castle, you will find images of the beloved Bianca painted by the famous artist Benedetto Bembo. The paintings are part of a larger series of frescos. The name of the castle derives from Torciara, due to the fact that the castle is located in an area known for its many olive presses, or torchi. In the 15th century, the area became known as Turris Clara, referring to the castle’s four crenellated towers, which dominate the valley still today. In 1470, the castle became the official office of Galeazzo Maria Sforza. However in 1483, the building was taken over by the troops of Lodovico il Moro, the new head of Milan, to whom Pier Maria refused to give his loyalty. Hidden away in the castle, Lodovico died within the same year. The castle was then given to the Pallavicino family. In the 16th and 17th centuries, there was less threat of attacks and Torrechiara was enlarged and converted into a luxurious country home. During this time, two large loggias were built around the castle. One of them was accessible from the Camera d’Oro, and from which one could enjoy the view of the Parma valley and vineyard-covered hills. The interior of the castle was redecorated with elegant landscape motifs, painted by Cesare Baglione and his workshop. In 1912, after the sale of a large part of the furniture and interior decorations, the castle was given to the Cassa di Risparmio di Parma by Pietro Cacciaguerra, its last owner. The local bank then donated the estate to the Italian government. During the previous year, the top artists in Parma completely reconstructed the Camera d’Oro on behalf of the region of Emilia-Romagna for the National Exposition of Ethnography in Rome. The artists recreated the room with the lost neogothic furniture, which is currently on display in one of the rooms on the main floor of the castle. The castle is situated on the top of a hill in the heart of a small, fortressed city. The foundation of the building is made up by a two concentric walls that surround a rectangular courtyard with a tower in each corner. The southwest facing entrance opens directly onto the courtyard. Thanks to a restoration project in the 20th century, there is now a long portico along the side of the castle. Above the portico, there is am airy loggia. Due to the elegant design of the castle, it has been used as the set for many films, like Donne e Soldati (1954) by Antonio Marchi from 1954 or Ladyhawke (1985) by Richard Donner with Michelle Pfeiffer, Matthew Broderick and Rutger Hauer. The castle of Torrechiara also hosts a number of summertime events, including the Renata Tebaldi Festival. Info: Ufficio informazioni turistiche di Torrechiara Borgo del Castello, 1 – 43010 Torrechiara (PR) – I Tel.: +39 0521 355255 (Biglietteria) – +39 0521 355009 (Ufficio I.A.T.) Fax: +39 0521 355821 E-mail: iat@comune.langhirano.pr.it Web: www.comune.langhirano.pr.it
	CASTELLO DI FELINO The castle of Felino has ancient origins. Sources suggest that the castle was built beginning in 890, by a nobleman named Luppone. The castle is located on a hill that was once home to a village during the Bronze Age. Over the course of the centuries, the castle was owned and occupied by many families – each one leaving their own personal mark. Some of the castle’s inhabitants include the Ruggeri family, the Rossi family, Ludivico il Moro, and even the Sforzas. Then came the French, the Pallavicino family, the Sforza di Santa Fiora family and the Masi family. In 1612, the castle was taken over by the Camera Ducale. From 1700 to 1935, it was part of the bishop’s property, or Menza Vescovile, and was eventually sold. Recently, the castle was passed along by the Brian family to the local countrymen. Today, it is property of the Alessandrini family who has completely restored the building. The castle is located on the top of a remote hill, placed strategically halfway along Val Baganza, surrounded by chestnut forests. It is a squat building with a simple, minimal design. The castle was originally a military fort, but was converted into a residence during the 14th century. Today, the castle looks like a large building surrounded by a moat with four turrets and a nice interior courtyard. The castle houses a charming restaurant and the headquarters of the Salame di Felino Museum. Info: Castello Di Felino - Locanda della Moiana - Strada al Castello, 1 - 43035 Felino (PR) – I Tel.: +39 0521 336020 - Fax: +39 0521 836845 E-mail: castellodifelino@piuhotels.com Web: www.castellodifelino.it
	ROCCA SANVITALE – SALA BAGANZA In the heart of the town of Sala Baganza, you can find Rocca Sanvitale. The rocca already existed in 1441, but was reconstructed in 1477 for Gilberto II Sanvitale in agreement with the duke of Milan, Galeazzo Maria Sforza, who nominated the Sanvitale family the Counts of Sala the very same year. The castle underwent considerable remodeling during the following centuries by the Sanvitale family and others. The Farnese dukes then took over the castle and made it part of the state patrimony. Ranuccio II used it as his summer home and hunting grounds. Eventually, the castle became the property of the dutchess Marie Louise. In 1804, Napoleon gave the entire building to Michele Varron, who demolished much of it. Nowadays, the rocca is partly owned by the local government and is open to the public. It is a long building with three floors, with two, crumbling turrets. What remains today is only a wing of the original structure. The turret on the northeastern corner and the entry bridge are still visible. Almost the entire wall surrounding the garden has also remained in tact. The garden itself was recently restored to its original form. Inside the rocca, there is a notable collection of frescos, paintings and works by Ercole Procaccino (Angelo e putti), Orazio Samacchini, (Storie di Giove Tonante e di Ercole, 1570) Cesare Baglione (L'allegoria delle quattro stagioni), and Sebastiano Galeotti (Apoteosi di Francesco Farnese, 1727). Most of the art is based on mythological themes. Attached to one side of the rocca is the oratory of San Lorenzo, built by duke Ferdinand of Bourbon in 1795. Info: Rocca Sanvitale - Piazza Gramsci - 43038 Sala Baganza (PR) – I Tel.: +39 0521/331342 - Fax: +39 0521/336429 E-mail: iatsala@comune.sala-baganza.pr.it