The Food of the 19th Century

The Food of the 19th CenturyDuring the middle of the 18th century, a culinary revolution occurred. The wave of change began in France and spread throughout Europe. 

The food of the Renaissance courts was replaced by more modern cuisine based on fresh ingredients, vegetables, and herbs. Flavors became more precise and more attention was paid to the paring of ingredients, and food with wine. The strong, heavily spiced flavors of the past contrasted with the measured delicacy of the new sauces and arrival of new products from America, including potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash and corn.

 

The Recipe

Gonzaga-style Pumpkin Tortelli

In 1796, Reggio Emilia was chosen as venue for the second congress of the Cispadane cities and on the 15th of October of that year, a "Patriotic Dinner" was offered by the Community of Novellara (in the Province of Reggio Emilia) to Napoleon Bonaparte, Commander of the Italian Army, just arrived from Reggio to visit the outposts deployed in the lowlands between Novellara, Reggiolo and Guastalla. Among the dishes offered to the general, which included fish, meat and desserts, were these Gonzaga-style Pumpkin Tortelli.

Select a pumpkin that is very sweet and floury, bake three kilos of it and skin it.

Add to the pumpkin some grated Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, two hectograms of macaroons pounded in a mortar, and some pieces of candied citron and “mostarda” fruit pickle. Flavor with cinnamon, pepper and grated lemon zest. Mix all the ingredients together well.

Roll out some pastry not too thin, and place on it some dollops of filling, cover with another layer and then cut out the “tortelli” about seven centimetres per side. Cook in abundant salted water, drain, and dress in layers in a preheated tureen with abundant melted butter and grated Parmesan cheese.

The recipe comes from:ACCADEMIA ItalianA DELLA CUCINA, Bicentenario del pranzo offerto dalla comunità di Novellara al Generale Bonaparte, comandante dell'Armata d'Italia, Reggio Emilia, Ass. naz. "Comitato primo Tricolore", 1996, BIGAB 9. 25. 3.